process_2s-plate

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process_2s-plate [2021/01/14 22:05] benhprocess_2s-plate [2022/09/07 15:18] (current) benh
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 This is for PCBs with traces and/or components on both sides of the board, and a need to electroplate the board (most commonly, for vias). This is for PCBs with traces and/or components on both sides of the board, and a need to electroplate the board (most commonly, for vias).
  
-**Be sure you actually NEED to electroplate before starting this!** The plating process can take in excess of three hours (depending on how closely you're watching it), and it is liable to not always workespecially due to things that are mostly out of your control. //There is an alternative!// Plating is typically avoidable by designing your vias as a standard hole with a diameter of 40 mil (1 mm). A standard 0.1” header pin can then be pushed through and soldered on both the top and bottom.+Note that as of Fall 2022, the electroplater is a separate tool that requires a separate training sequence. Please check our [[pcb-training|Training]] page for details. 
 + 
 +**Be sure you actually NEED to electroplate before starting this!** The plating process usually takes in excess of three hours (depending on how closely you're watching it), and is historically unreliable. Further, even if it looks like the plating quality is goodthe micron-scale variability across the sheet may doom any etching attempts. //There is an alternative!// Plating is typically avoidable by designing your vias as a standard hole with a diameter of 40 mil (1 mm). A standard 0.1” header pin can then be pushed through and soldered on both the top and bottom. You can accomplish similar things with wires or other pins of different diameters.
  
 **Before starting, make sure:** **Before starting, make sure:**
-  * [[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1y6qYp7Tv8lrvHjeBfjXF7t3Xf4442x8UzIu57bmN_Nc/edit?usp=sharing|you're logged into SUMS]]; +  * [[https://gtvault.sharepoint.com/:w:/s/HiveMakerspace/EVBq41QPV51FvAhi3I_zkAUBqOHfQh_ylA_ddHQ4ZyzPGA?e=cO0su7|you're logged into SUMS]]; 
-  * [[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tKj2HkHCQ8RM09Q0a0PphZlWCgmuA4eVphwEWvrsnhc/edit?usp=sharing|the ProtoMat and software are running]]; and +  * [[https://gtvault.sharepoint.com/:w:/s/HiveMakerspace/EY2LyqOt_o9Pr8JPhp6u26cBxRIilQx5lEn7qFY9cZ2SoA?e=nH5y1X|the ProtoMat and software are running]]; and 
-  * [[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ni6ZMIp7A1YNk7fruk6TA6x-7CXlVUl-xI4Tt_hdHEo/edit?usp=sharing|the ProtoLaser are software are on and warming up]].+  * [[https://gtvault.sharepoint.com/:w:/s/HiveMakerspace/EbBDlXvWlSVItrI0YtYitGoBxD4IAhapi2-ZIFklbZFu_w?e=rjlMci|the ProtoLaser are software are on and warming up]]
 +  * Turn on the electroplater and let it warm up. Bath 1 needs to heat to 55C, which can take up to an hour, and which it will do in the background while the tool is not being used.
  
-**Step 1:** [[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1z67U7quFQ2fclWWpJhwjuKuP1tThYhn1iTQfWKsAJ7Q/edit?usp=sharing|Process setup and first drilling on the ProtoMat]]+**Step 1:** [[https://gtvault.sharepoint.com/:w:/s/HiveMakerspace/EVU4FeAXtdBLmLRg28Gp1XkBkJj_OcnjsgNE_SWZ_LaIYg?e=r7f7YP|Process setup and first drilling on the ProtoMat]]
  
   * The ProtoMat will pause at a step called "Dismount Material"   * The ProtoMat will pause at a step called "Dismount Material"
-  * Once it reaches that point, remove the substrate from the ProtoMat and click "Abort" in the Wizard.+  * Once it reaches that point, remove the substrate from the ProtoMat and click "Abort" in the Wizard. (Note that in the electroplater training video, we don't do this, but doing this will save you some time if you follow these guides.)
   * Continue with Step 2.   * Continue with Step 2.
  
-**Step 2:** [[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zjhNSZCHK_tCMFgd4uHIHq-y6TXKWvbJRwxl24ltXCI/edit?usp=sharing|Electroplating with the Contac S4]]\\ +**Step 2:** [[https://gtvault.sharepoint.com/:w:/s/HiveMakerspace/ESv_zF8waMZDucEP3-J6NFYBuArRkl8M5vwusDOW_0RiDQ?e=IUuxvH|Electroplating with the Contac S4]]\\ 
-//Quick Plating Tips:// +\\ 
-  * If you would like to adjust the plating time, ask a PI to put you in touch with an MPI.+//Quick Plating Tips//: 
 +  * Adjusting the plating time can be done if you need a different thickness of copper rather than the standard 18um. If you would like to adjust the plating time, contact the MPIs at <hive-pcb@ece.gatech.edu>.
   * Do not let your substrate sit in the bath (any bath) for very long after the timer runs out.   * Do not let your substrate sit in the bath (any bath) for very long after the timer runs out.
   * If the machine throws an error on startup, it’s likely a bath needs to be topped off. Get a PI to help.   * If the machine throws an error on startup, it’s likely a bath needs to be topped off. Get a PI to help.
-  * After bath 3 (activator): +  * Don't forget to stir bath 3 prior to use! At least 3 minutes, about 200 end-to-end strokes
-    * Swipe a “reasonable” amount off with squeegee (mostly just don’t want it dripping) +  * When rinsing after drying (after “bath 4”), scrub the copper surface with a sponge to remove as much of the dried activator off the copper as possible
-    * Dry for 20+ mins at 150F. (Higher than this can cause the ink to bake into the copper.) +  * Scour around your fiducials after plating. It makes a noticeable difference to the laser.
-    * When rinsing after drying (after “bath 4”), scrub the copper surface with a sponge to remove as much of the dried activator off the copper as possible.+
  
-**Step 3:** [[https://docs.google.com/document/d/12wh_QeFDMwJ3yHM_1vKg2GOl59GsFNlvb-bEEM9CVig/edit?usp=sharing|Etching with the ProtoLaser]]+**Step 3:** [[https://gtvault.sharepoint.com/:w:/s/HiveMakerspace/ERfKdS6GbVpJo6k_gJ1MgLgB3VVaU7ckSrJCkb4FGMK1IA?e=1rAYmW|Etching with the ProtoLaser]]
  
-**Step 4:** [[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1uAXuYXLWbGZ9QXFLtfK_cNIoK9yKyPrC-1UqUaSmDzk/edit?usp=sharing|Routing with the ProtoMat]]+**Step 4:** [[https://gtvault.sharepoint.com/:w:/s/HiveMakerspace/Edjj8jMNM41GlLnyGoimobUBNnqyUsva7KgEmdtWk4Ceow?e=brYMfK|Routing with the ProtoMat]]
  
 ---- ----
 For issues with the ProtoMat, see the [[pcb-help_pm|ProtoMat Knowledge Base]].\\ For issues with the ProtoMat, see the [[pcb-help_pm|ProtoMat Knowledge Base]].\\
-For issues with the ProtoLaser, see the [[pcb-help_pl|ProtoLaser Knowledge Base]]+For issues with the ProtoLaser, see the [[pcb-help_pl|ProtoLaser Knowledge Base]].\\ 
----- +For issues with the electroplatersee the [[pcb-help_ep|Contact S4 Knowledge Base]].
-=== Common Electroplating Issues === +
-  * **"Device in failed state" on tool boot up.** +
-    * //Potential issue:// Baths 1 and/or 2 are low.\\ +
-      * Lift the lids to baths 1 and 2. If they are low, get a PI/MPI/Staff to refill from the chemical cabinet in the storage closet in the Semi-clean room. +
- +
-  * **Zero plating current error during plating step (Bath 5)** +
-    * //Potential issue:// Too much copper buildup on the PCB holder.\\ +
-      * Put on the chemical safety gear (apron, goggles, gloves, in that order) and remove the board from bath 5. Using the drip tray, go to the sink and rinse the drip tray, board, holder, and gloves well. Remove the board from the holder with the allen key. Using a fine-grit sandpaperfile, or sanding block, sand off any copper build-up on the posts and on the metal on the underside. Big flakes of copper may come off; this is expected. Once it looks cleaner, seat the empty holder into an empty bath (Bath 4 works well) and screw it down. Get a multimeter. The resistance between either of the posts on the holder and the metal strips with the pegs that run down the line of baths should be less than 1 ohm. If the multimeter confirms the resistance as below 1 ohm, re-attach the substrate to the holder, don the chemical gear again, place it back into Bath 5 and screw it down, and press the play button to continue +
-      * If the error continues to be triggered, the resistance remains high, or you are not comfortable doing this, please get a PI. +
-    * //Potential issue:// Insufficient contact between the metal pegs in the tool and the metal underside of the tool holder. +
-      * While wearing the chemical safety gear, make sure that the tool holder is completely screwed down onto the pegs. +
-      * If the toolholder screws will not tighten further but is not in contact with the rail (i.e. there is a gap between the tool holder and the metal side railings), attempt to re-seat the holder onto the pegs While wearing the chemical safety gear.  +
-      * If that is unsuccessful in solving the issue, while wearing the chemical safety gear, remove the board+holder from Bath 5 and, using the drip tray, move to the sink to rinse the board, holder, gloves, and drip tray. Remove the board from the holder with the allen key. Using a wire brush, sandpaper, or other means, clean out the peg holes in the tool holder. This may require disassembly of the holder entirely. To test the connection, make sure to don the chemical safety gear again before slotting the holder (without the substrate) into Bath 5. Using a multimeter, measure the resistance between the posts on the holder to the metal rails; this should be below 1 ohm. Rinse the holder when you remove it from the Bath while wearing the chemical safety gear. +
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  • Last modified: 2021/01/14 22:05
  • by benh